Moroccan Road Trip: From Casablanca to Agadir

Overview Hi all! I’ve just come back from a fab Moroccan road trip, starting in Casablanca and ending in Agadir. In case anyone is interested, here are my trip notes. I did it in two parts over two visits, but it works just as well as one longer trip.

Morocco: Safety, Food, and Driving

• Safety: Morocco is very safe, probably safer than Paris or Barcelona. Everyone we met was welcoming and helpful. Yes, sometimes they tried to sell us things—it’s called doing business. A polite “No thanks” was all that was required.
• Food: We ate at local cafes, top-end restaurants, home-cooked meals, street food, and roadside vendors. Everything was good, and we had no issues.
• Driving: The main roads are surprisingly good, while minor roads require reasonable care. There are frequent police checkpoints, but they were routine and courteous. No international license is needed for UK photocard holders. Take extra insurance and consider an SUV if venturing off the beaten path.
• Alcohol: You can bring alcohol into Morocco, but finding it outside of Agadir can be tricky. Licensed restaurants are always more expensive.
• Accommodation & Car Rental: We booked most accommodation and car hire through a booking website to keep everything in one place.

Casablanca: First Impression

• Flew into Casablanca, as it’s the main transport hub. The city itself didn’t enchant me.
• Stayed at Melliber Hotel, next to Hassan II Mosque (book a day in advance).
• The only highlight was a night at Rick’s Bar, a themed homage to Casablanca, with great atmosphere, good food, and cocktails (~£50 per head).
• Took a day trip to El Jadida, a 16th-century Portuguese fort on the Atlantic coast. The train station is far from the old town, and taxis were scarce.

Marrakech: Medina & Beyond

• Took a train to Marrakech (pay extra for 1st class and book seats in advance).
• Our accommodation, Riad al Loune, was a beautiful, atmospheric stay in the Medina. Be mindful that Riads aren’t soundproof.
• The Medina is a labyrinth and an experience in itself. Expect to get lost; have a fixed landmark for navigation.
• Bartering is part of the culture—stay friendly, know currency values, and be ready to walk away.
• Food & Drinks: Lots of similar restaurants in the Medina. Rooftop bars exist but are pricey. For a cocktail outside the Medina, Le Grand Café de la Poste in the new town was stylish with excellent food and Moroccan wine.

Atlas Mountains: A Retreat at Le Cazar

• Rented a car and avoided driving in Marrakech itself.
• Le Cazar, a boutique hotel in the Atlas foothills, was perfect—stunning views, a great pool, baby goats, and amazing food. Not for those who dislike dogs.

Essaouira: Coastal Charm

• Parked at the medina entrance; porters took our luggage for a small fee.
• Stayed at Salut Maroc, an opulent Riad by the sea walls with a fantastic rooftop restaurant (book in advance!).
• Essaouira felt like a calmer Marrakech, perfect for slowing down, with lovely walks and excellent dining.

Agadir & Taghazout: Surf Vibes

• Agadir was not my scene—modern seafront hotels and fast food chains.
• Stayed a week in Taghazout, a laid-back surf town with an amazing beachfront vibe.
• Favorite hangout: World of Waves, a seafront bar/restaurant with great seafood and drinks.
• A taxi into Agadir was 100 dirhams, but we took the local bus, which turned into an amusing adventure with rowdy kids and police intervention.

Villa Souss: A Hidden Gem

• Stayed at Villa Souss, an enchanting ecolodge run by Mekki, preserving his family’s historic Riad. A work in progress but full of character and history.

Tizourgane Kasbah & Tafroute: Into the Mountains

• Drove through the Anti-Atlas, a stark but beautiful landscape.
• Stayed at Tizourgane Kasbah, an ancient citadel in the middle of nowhere. Rooms were monastic, but the place was stunning.
• Tafroute was a delightful, unpretentious mountain town. Stayed at Hotel Salama, straight out of a Graham Greene novel—cheap, comfortable, and full of character.
• Explored the Ameln Valley, visited an oasis, and had a minor car accident (easily fixed by a local mechanic for 200 dirhams!).

Mirleft & Sidi Ifni: South to the Atlantic

• Mirleft was small, quirky, and friendly. Stayed at a house owned by Omar, who made the best tagine ever.
• Tafluga Restaurant and Casablanca Café Bar were top dining picks.
• A day trip to Sidi Ifni—a former Spanish enclave with art-deco colonial charm.
• Souss Massa National Park: Hired a local guide (worth it!) and saw the rare Bald Ibis colony.

Getting Stuck in the Desert

• Took a scenic route gone wrong, ending up in deep sand.
• A local motorcyclist called for help, and a Dutch adventurer named Max saved us.
• We all got stuck again, but Max had the right gear and got us out.

Final Thoughts

• Morocco is a country of contrasts—bustling cities, serene mountains, and breathtaking coastlines.
• The people were welcoming, resourceful, and always ready to help.
• The adventure had its challenges, but that’s what made it unforgettable!

Would I do it again? Absolutely.